Stay, Eat, Do: A Traveler's Guide to Makkah and Madinah for First-Time Pilgrims

Most guides to Umrah tell you about the rituals and stop there. That makes sense, as the rituals are why you’re going. But the Umrah itself takes a few hours, and most people are away for ten days or two weeks. That leaves a lot of time in two cities you’ve probably never seen, and hardly anyone tells you what to do with it.

This guide is about the rest of the trip: where to sleep, what to eat and what to see once your Umrah is done. If you’ve booked one of the All-Inclusive Umrah Packages that UK agents sell, your flights, hotels and transfers will be taken care of, and some of the visits below may be part of the deal. The days in between are still yours to fill, though, and a bit of reading beforehand means you won’t waste them sitting in the hotel lobby.

Where you stay in Makkah comes down to one thing, which is how far you are from the Haram. The hotels in the Clock Tower complex and the streets right next to the mosque are the closest and cost the most. You can be at prayer within five minutes of leaving your room, and for elderly pilgrims that’s worth paying for.

Further out, areas such as Aziziyah are a good deal cheaper. Hotels there usually run shuttle buses to the Haram, but the buses are packed around prayer times and you’ll spend part of each day waiting. Ajyad sits somewhere in the middle. It’s within walking distance, although some of the streets are steep. Ask your agent for the walking time in minutes before you agree to anything.

You won’t go hungry. Because pilgrims come from all over the world, you’ll find Pakistani, Turkish, Indonesian, Yemeni and Egyptian food within a short walk of the Haram.

• Al Baik. This fried chicken chain is something of a legend in Saudi Arabia. It’s cheap, the queues are long and almost every pilgrim ends up there at least once.

• Mandi and kabsa. Slow-cooked lamb or chicken on a big plate of spiced rice, made for sharing. Three people can easily eat from one dish.

• Mutabbaq. A stuffed, folded pancake sold from small shops. It comes with meat or as a sweet version with banana.

• Karak tea. Strong, milky and sweet. You’ll find it on every corner for next to nothing.

Zamzam water is free all round the Haram, so carry a small bottle and fill it up as you go.

When your Umrah is finished and you’ve had a rest, there are several places worth a visit:

• Jabal al-Nour. The mountain with the Cave of Hira, where the first verses of the Quran were revealed. The climb is steep and takes most people over an hour, so go before sunrise and take water. It isn’t for anyone with bad knees.

• Hira Cultural District. At the foot of the same mountain, with an exhibition about the revelation. It’s a good choice for those who can’t manage the climb.

• The Clock Tower Museum. Near the top of the tower, with views across the Haram and the city.

• Mina, Arafat and Muzdalifah. These are the sites of Hajj. Outside the Hajj season they’re quiet, and a taxi or tour will take you round all three in a morning.

You don’t have to travel down to London to begin your journey. Birmingham Umrah Packages are popular with families across the Midlands for a simple reason: nobody wants a three-hour drive to Heathrow with grandparents and six suitcases before the real travelling has even started. From Birmingham Airport you can usually reach Jeddah or Madinah with one stop, in places such as Istanbul, Doha or Dubai, and in some seasons there are direct flights too. Ask your agent what’s running on your dates.

Between the two holy cities, take the Haramain high-speed train if you can. It’s quick and comfortable, and it beats several hours on a coach.

Nearly everyone says the same thing about Madinah, which is that it feels calmer. The streets are wider, the pace is slower and people seem to have more time. Many pilgrims wish they’d booked more nights here and fewer in Makkah.

The area round the Prophet’s Mosque is called the Markaziyah, or central zone. Hotels here are a few minutes’ walk from the mosque on flat ground, which is a relief after the hills of Makkah. Prices are generally lower than for the same standard in Makkah. Places further out are cheaper again, but in Madinah the difference in price is often small enough that staying central is the better choice.

Madinah is known for its dates, and the Ajwa is the best known of them. Go to the date market near the mosque and try a few before you buy. The sellers expect you to taste, and it’s polite to haggle a bit. A couple of boxes make the best presents to take home, and they’re far better value than anything at the airport.

For meals, the streets round the central zone have the same wide choice as Makkah. Look for the small restaurants where the local workers eat. They’re cheaper than the hotel buffets, and the food is usually better.

• The Rawdah. The area inside the Prophet’s Mosque between his tomb and his pulpit. You need to book a slot through the Nusuk app, and it’s best done as early as you can.

• Masjid Quba. The first mosque built in Islam, a short drive from the centre. Many pilgrims go on a Saturday morning, following the Prophet’s own habit.

• Mount Uhud. The site of the famous battle, with the cemetery of those who died there. Go early, before the coaches arrive.

• Masjid al-Qiblatain. The mosque where the direction of prayer was changed from Jerusalem to Makkah.

• Jannat al-Baqi. The old cemetery beside the Prophet’s Mosque, where many of his family and companions are buried.

Most hotels and agents can arrange a half-day tour of these places, usually called a Ziyarat. Check whether it’s included in your package before you pay for one separately.

• Shops close for a short while at each prayer time, so plan your shopping around them.

• Friday is the busiest day in both mosques. Get there well ahead of the midday prayer.

• Bring comfortable sandals you’ve already worn in. You’ll walk further than you expect.

• Cards are accepted in most places, but small stalls and some taxis want cash.

• Dress modestly wherever you are, not only at the mosque.

Give yourself a quiet day or two with nothing planned. Some of the best hours of the trip are the ones spent sitting in the courtyard of the Prophet’s Mosque after the evening prayer, with a cup of tea and a few dates, watching the big umbrellas fold away for the night.