48 hours in flirty and classy Bangok
Disclaimer: This was my second time in the city and there definitely some sights I didn't go this time but that I highly recommend doing (specially Ayutthaya). Even though my SEA trip was a solo one, I was with a friend for the first week of my trip (Bangkok and Krabi)
Whenever you research about Bangkok you will see that the city seems to get a lot of polarising reviews from its tourists, and I can understand why. It is the most visited city in the world and yet most people wouldn't catalog it as a pretty city, and in my opinion it isn't; however, it is both very energetic and eclectic with a wide range of sights that caters to the average backpacker seeking parties and also to the more refined old Englishman (basically Jack Whitehall and his father).
Grand Palace
Being the capital of the only country that wasn't colonised in Southeast Asia, Bangkok has known how to preserve its own identity while having a foot in the global scene. It is a city that you can enjoy through its temples or a visit to Ayutthaya, as well as through its rooftop bars, fine dining and great shopping malls.
Most of the itineraries that I found that included Bangkok suggested 2-4 full days. I think 3 full days (4 nights) allows plenty of time to visit the top sights and a day trip to Ayutthaya; however, this being my 2nd time I was only here for 48 hours (although it was the first time for my friend so I did end up doing some of the sites again).
In lieu of trying to sound like a rigid guide book, I posted the things I did during my 48 hours as well as some general recommendations of the city.
Arrive/Depart
Bangkok Suvarnabhumi Airport
If coming from another country, you'll most likely arrive at the new Suvarnabhumi Bangkok Airport (IATA: BKK). You will be able to exchange your money as well as buy a SIM card (which we decided not to, as part of a "digital detox", although we failed).
The airport is easily accessed from the city centre using the Skytrain. This transportation option will get you to Phayathai BTS Skytrain station for only 45 Bahts (1.5 USD) where you can transfer to the regular BTS line and get yourself to other parts of the city like Siam. You may also take a taxi from Phayathai if you need to go somewhere further west where the Skytrain does not serve.
Stay
For my second visit, I decided to stay at the One Day Hostel, located just 4 minutes away by foot from Phrom Phong station. I was in a 6 bed mixed room and found the hostel to be very nice, clean and cozy - great if you are not fond of party hostels. However, I wasn't keen about the location. Although it was close to a Skytrain station, I did find the hotel to be a bit far away from the major sights, such as the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, located further west. I also recommend checking out the Once Again Hostel where I stayed during my first visit, slightly more expensive but definitely worth it.
For more details about my two stays you can check out my Tripadvisor reviews.
Getting Around
Without getting into too much detail about Bangkok's transportation system I do have two notes to share:
1. There are two boat options.
If you are staying around the Siam Shopping Malls or even further east and want to visit Wat Pho/Wat Arun or the Grand Palace, you will most likely that the Skytrain BTS all the way to Sapha Taksin and then hop on a boat and go north. When you get to the Pier you will notice a big sign that advertises the Chao Phraya Tourist Boat which offers a route with all of the major sights along the Phraya River. A single ticket from the Pier to Wat Arun will cost you 60 THB (2 USD), which you will need to add the BTS train ticket to get to the pier. Even if it doesn't sound expensive, there are Public Boats (Chao Phraya Express Boat) that can take you to the same places for way less - same distance was only 15 THB (0.50 USD) and the quality is very similar.
2. Taxi - always ask for meter.
You've probably seen this advice several times before but it is a very useful one. I found using meter Taxis was sometimes cheaper than doing the whole Skytrain + Boat package IF you are travelling with more people and can split the taxi fare.
This time I noticed that Uber is no longer available but you can get the App Grab and use it (pretty much all along Southeast Asia). However, I found the prices were almost twice as much as a regular Taxi (with meter).
Things to do
Wat Arun & Wat Pho
After checking in and taking a shower, my friend and I headed to the two city's iconic temples: Wat Arun and Wat Pho -both of which I had already visited before. After asking the hotel staff, they suggested in taking the Skytrain from Phrom Phong station to Saphan Taksin station, located next to the Pier and getting a boat to Wat Arun. The total journey took around 45 minutes and 105 THB (3.5 USD) - guessed who took the expensive boat.
Regardless of our rookie mistake we arrived at Wat Arun after a 20 minutes boat ride. Without going into too much detail, a couple of comments about the sight:
Although it is known as the Temple of Dawn, it was relatively empty considering that sunset was approaching. The Temple Complex is smaller than the one at Wat Pho or The Grand Palace - I'd recommend being here 45 minutes-, but still worth coming as it is different than what you would normally encounter at a Thai temple (more quaint than average). The entrance fee was 50 THB and do remember that women will not be allowed in if they are wearing shorts or skirts (they of course offer the typical Thai pants and long skirts for you to rent). The same policy is not entirely the same for men as I was wearing shorts and had no problem at the entrance.
After a short visit we headed to Wat Pho, that as you will see in a map it's just across the Phraya River which you will be able to get using a boat that departs 100 metres away Wat Arun's entrance.
Wat Arun
Out of the two Temples, Wat Pho is hands down my favourite. As it is quite larger, although more expensive at 100 THB, it offers more to the eye, specially the Reclining Buddha. You will also find the Traditional Thai Massage School that unfortunately I arrived when it was already closing down; however, during my first visit I took both a foot massage and a Thai massage. Although I did like the foot massage - they ripped my shirt during the Thai one!-, I'm sure it is way overpriced due to its location. Even if you are not considering taking a massage, I recommend spending around 90 minutes.
Grand Palace
The Grand Palace was THE place I was looking forward the most this visit as last time I was in Bangkok the late king had just passed away and the Palace was open just for locals.
We got to the Palace just after 10:30 AM, which was a big mistake as the place was packed. PEOPLE: Do try to arrive as early as possible to avoid the crowds. Also, keep in mind that both men and women will be required to wear long pants/skirts- there are some options for rentals but between you and me, you don't wan't to be photographed in those.
After this visit, I must say the Grand Palace is my favourite tourist attraction in Bangkok. It seemed that the Thai Royalty wanted to show their European counterparts they were experts at building a Palace that was genuinely "over the top", even more than Versailles. The complex is quite large and filled with buildings and structures so detailed that even though it seems things don't really go together, they end up creating a fascinating golden scenery.
Grand Palace
Do plan to stay at least 90 minutes in the complex and make sure to bring a bottle of water to stay hydrated - you'll be able to refill it inside for free.
If looking for a place to freshen up with ice cream and desserts, make sure to visit After You, located just 10 minutes away by foot at the Tha Maharaj "shopping complex". If you are in a hurry, just keep an eye open as they have plenty of branches all over the city and the country.
Khao San Road
You know those places that are at the top of "Things to do in X" lists that you quite don't understand why do people visit them? Call me a hater but Khao San Road was exactly that for me. I don't want to discourage people from visiting this street, as I know many people, including my friend, do enjoy going, having a drink or 5, doing some shopping and maybe having a foot massage - which we actually had one. However, I don't really see the hype in walking down a street that it seems it was perfectly crafted for westerners, and I don't mean that in a good way. You will see a lot of stalls with "exotic food", others selling "Happy Balloons" and some more with bags and souvenirs where bargaining becomes an useful skill.
Bottom line, if you do like doing the whole "I'm at an exotic country but with Margaritas and Tequila Shots" thing, sure come here. I wouldn't recommend it for families, though.
Chinatown
Located along Yaowarat Road, Bangkok's Chinatown adds a unique flavour to the eccentricity of the city. With its colourful stalls and food options, even if you are not looking for anything in particular, just taking a stroll and doing some street photography will captivate your eye.
Chinatown
If you are coming either from Wat Pho/Wat Arun or the Grand Palace you can arrive by boat - through the Memorial Bridge Pier. If coming from Siam or further east, you can catch the Skytrain and later the metro all the way to the Hua Lamphong station.
Lumphini Park
Although not a must-see, if you do have the time or are close, the Lumphini Park offers a nice change of setting for such a convoluted city like Bangkok. If you decide to take a stroll around the park, is best to do it in the morning with all the runners - before 9:30 AM to avoid the heat- or around sunset so you can catch some nice views. I also saw somewhere that at 08:00 AM and at 06:00 PM you can watch every runner stop to listen the national anthem.
Lumphini Park
If you need a coffee or drink before you will find a Shopping Mall right next to the Skytrain Sala Daeng station with some options for you. You can arrive either by Metro to Silom station or by the Skytrain to Sala Daeng station, which if you decide the latter you will be able to catch some views of the park from above as well as of the Bangkok Sports Club.
Shopping
Siam Shopping District
If interested in doing either actual or just window shopping in Southeast Asia, this the place to go. The Siam Shopping District encompasses several indoor centres- my favourite two being Siam Discovery and Siam Center, each with a very unique design and concept, as well as some street-level stores.
Contrary to all the American malls, Bangkok seems to really get the whole "customer experience" aspect of shopping as they've created top-notch unique places. What I like the most about Siam, is that not only it includes all the classics- Sephora, H&M, Gucci (obviously a must for backpackers) but it also offers Asian fashion designers that you'll probably not find in the US and Europe.
Mango Tango @ Siam
If you end up hitting the neighbourhood and crave a dessert, you'll find Mango Tango across the street from Siam Center, where you can enjoy some (slightly expensive) sticky rice with mango.
Warehouse 30
Into shopping but too cool for a mall? Then add Warehouse 30 to your list. Recently inaugurated in mid-2017, the Warehouse is located 15 minutes by foot from Hua Lamphong metro stop and 20 from Saphan Taksin Skytrain station, making it easily accessible from various parts of the city. Although not that big in size, it encompasses a mix of art galleries, ice cream parlour, cafe and stores offering everything from street fashion clothing to eclectic souvenirs and vinyls. Definitely worth going if you need to pump some originality in your wardrobe.
Located just 5 minutes away by foot, you will find the Thailand Creative and Design Center, which frequently hosts exhibitions on design, from objects to urban.
Also nearby, just across the river and founded by the same architect of Warehouse 30, you can visit its older and more outdoorsy sister, The Jam Factory.
Things I missed
I could not call myself a blunt traveller f I didn't accept that after having been twice to Bangkok, I still have the following things saved for my next trip.
Chatuchak Weekend Market - Although it offers the most during Saturdays and Sundays it's also open during Fridays (wholesale day) and Wednesdays and Thursdays (Plants and Flowers). You can find it next to Mo Chit Skytrain Station from 6 AM to 6 PM.
Eathai - Essentially a food hall for those lovers of street food sans the street.
Sky bar rooftop - Not exactly if this is a total tourist trap as I've heard they heavily over charged their menu options but I'm sure the view is unbeatable.
Also, as previously stated, this was my second time in the city and I didn't visit the Jim Thompson House neither did I go to Ayutthaya this time around, which should be included in your list of things to do.
Overall thoughts
One of the things I read and saw from other travellers is that they might've skipped Bangkok and stayed more days in other places; however, I wouldn't give out the same advice. Although this is the type of city where you might want to stick to an itinerary and a things to do list instead of just wandering around - like in Chiang Mai- I do think it's a great city specially as a first stop to Southeast Asia.
On one hand, you'll find places from Ayutthaya to the Grand Palace, that are spectacular sites worth visiting due to their historical meaning. On the other, you can splurge with massages, shopping, food and parties.
Bottom line: Bangkok is most definitely capable of catering to all types of tastes as well as to different budgets and very few cities can say that of themselves.