See Naples and Die (Part I)

"See Naples and die" is what famous German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe quoted in his book Italian Journey about the city in 1816. A saying that widely spread among the people of the Peninsula and contains all the city's charm in just four words. The author came up with this sentence when finding himself unable to express the beauties of Napoli, thus visiting the city should be your last wish before dying. 

Marechiaro

Naples is a city with a controversial history and yet capable of enchanting epochal major figures such as Hemingway, Warhol or Neruda thanks to its sense of identity and uniqueness. After a difficult time, the city is now rising from its ashes and, thanks to a policy that encourages tourism development, is becoming more and more the first choice among many cities in Italy when it comes to planning a trip to the land of la dolce vita.

Gulf of Naples at night

Parthenope, as the Greeks first called it when they settled in the second millennium BC, still keeps an ancestral look as some of the buildings of the time stand immaculate in the quaint streets of the city. The Old Town Quarter is a perfect example of a genuine "unreconstructed" place, gritty but real where everything seems to have stopped a lifetime ago and yet, so magically alive. The Centro Storico is art at its purest and its theatres, churches, and universities, among the oldest in Europe, lure several hundred thousand people that want to enjoy the beauty of contemporaneity in a world made of ancient shades.

One of the characteristic narrow alleys (vicoli) around town...

...and here is another one

A city ahead of its time, Naples is its people's reflection, where sacred and profane are no longer distinct, and spirituality goes hand in hand with superstition, giving life to mysticism that endures in books and tales to pass on. Ancient relics and holy cards are present in large numbers outside the houses for people to worship in return to favors and good luck. In this world of unbearable sameness of cities and their individuals, Naples, and Neapolitans are free of all restrictions society imposes upon us, and preserve all characteristic traits that have distinguished them for centuries.

A "Corno" the most famous talisman among Neapolitans

The former Capital of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (the state that covered the area of today's Southern Italy before the unification in 1861) is also a strong supporter of values of equality and non-discrimination and therefore one of the most multi-ethnic places in Europe. The most varied cultures from Africa, Middle-east, Central and East Asia, Latino America and, of course, Western Countries all merge into one, adding a distinct touch of warmth and friendliness to the city and reinforce its sense of belonging and authenticity.

A peek at Naples' architecture...

...and its bay

But Naples is much more than just mythology and folklore, it is, in fact, one of the major representatives of the Italian traditions abroad thanks to its culture, art, and delicious food. Music and theatre have been a source of inspiration to the whole world for decades, thanks to leading artists such as Totò, Peppino di Capri or Award-Winning actress Sophia Loren. The celebrated Canzone Napoletana (Neapolitan Song), for instance, soon spread across the world and songs such as 'O sole mio and 'O surdato 'nnammurato have now become iconic symbols of the Italian music overseas. 

Sophia Loren, the only Italian actress in the history capable of winning two Oscars (1962, 1991)

Culinary tradition is, also, deeply rooted in the territory with Neapolitan pizza being a real cult and highly appreciated all over the globe. Other examples of signature food include pasta dishes such as Spaghetti Alle Vongole (spaghetti with clams) or Pasta e Fagioli (pasta and beans) who started as a peasant dish and to which Dean Martin even dedicated a line in the famous song That's Amore..."When the stars make you drool, just like pasta fazool, that's amore". Many other local delicacies would deserve mention but this story would become unbearably long and would make too many readers' mouth water.

Famous pizza chef Gino Sorbillo

Spaghetti alle vongole

Despite its time-honored tradition, the city is now rediscovering a new contemporary verve and its fresh urban look and subversive street art prove its will to move with the times. For example, Naples is the only city to host a certified Banksy's work in Italy, La Madonna con la Pistola, and is also the hometown of Jorit, the well-known Italian graffiti artist who has been decorating the city walls for years.

La Madonna con la pistola, Banksy

Graffiti of Che Guevara, Jorit

Obviously Diego Maradona, painted on the walls and in the hearts of all Neapolitans

Traveling around the world gives the chance to meet a lot of unique people who most certainly bring along heavy backpacks stuffed with incredible stories to tell and sometimes, questions to ask. Once I run into a stranger who had a very interesting one. "What's Naples for you?". Very simple and concise, this question is much deeper than it sounds. Unfortunately for him, my answer wasn't as insightful as he expected and got him visibly disappointed. And now, I'm being honest when I say that sometimes I still think about that stranger's question and if I only had another go at it, I would reply to him by quoting the first lines from a song, rightfully written in Neapolitan language by Pino Daniele, the legendary Neapolitan singer tragically passed away a few years ago. The song is called "Napule è", a hymn to the city that goes...

"Napule è mille culure / Naples is a thousand colors

Napule è mille paure / Naples is a thousand fears

Napule è a voce de' criature / Naples is the voice of the children

Che saglie chianu chianu / Slowly rising

E tu sai ca' non si sulo / So you know you're not alone

Napule è nu sole amaro / Naples is a bitter sun

Napule è ardore e' mare / Naples is the smell of the sea

Napule è na' carta sporca / Naples is a dirty waste paper

E nisciuno se ne importa / And nobody cares          

E ognuno aspetta a' sciorta / And everyone just waits for fate”

...Here, stranger, if for some bizarre reason you are reading my article today, well, I think you will like this answer better!