Red Cap Walking Tour of La Paz
The Red Cap City Walking Tour is a popular option to acquaint oneself with the crazy city that is La Paz, and as always it’s a good idea to do it within the first few days of arriving.
Starting in San Pedro Square, or Plaza Sucre as it’s otherwise known, our first site, right next door, was the famous San Pedro Prison and the setting of the popular book, Marching Powder. A prison quite unlike any other in the world, inmates rent their cells, and, if they can afford it, can live in them with their families and flat screen TVs. The prison is armed only by external guards and has its own internal, thriving economy.
Next we skirted around Mercado Rodriguez, a large outdoor produce market running everyday and staffed by caseras – the female vendors, who, as a side note, don’t appreciate having their photo taken. Many of these women are also cholitas, indigenous women mostly from the Aymara culture (in La Paz) with a very distinctive style, namely the layered pollera, a too-small bowler hat atop two long plaits and usually carrying a huge load on their backs wrapped in a colourful aguayo.
Potatoes are a BIG deal in Bolivia. There are literally thousands of varieties.
Mercado Rodriguez
A cholita shopping at Mercado Rodriguez
Traditionally dressed cholitas
Next we went to Mercado de las Brujas, more commonly known as the witches market. Here you can buy beautiful textiles and souvenirs, get your coca leaves read, purchase all the natural remedies under the sun and, most importantly, get an offering prepared for Pachamama, Mother Earth which is an important part of Bolivian customs. Offerings, or mesas, are prepared by the brujas or witches and the size and contents depend on the occasion. In general Pachamama appreciates food, alcohol and anything bright, sparkly and sweet. Oh and llama foetuses - they are her absolute favourite.
Every shop has a plethora of dead baby llamas
Inside a market stall. See the mesa being prepared on the left.
A cholita preparing a mesa for Pachamama
Next up was the San Francisco Church, one of La Paz’s most notable landmarks, and then Mercado Lanza, a three storey high market that is half carpark. Not the most attractive setting but the avocado sandwiches and fresh juices are deserving of their great reputation.
San Francisco Church
Our snack stop in Mercado Lanza
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At Plaza Murillo, the country’s parliamentary hub, we had a brief political history lesson covering the good, the bad and the ugly of some presidents past and present.
Bolivia’s parliamentary building
The pink building is the former government palace where the president used to rule the country. There are plans to develop it into a museum. The tall building behind it is the recently built new government palace.
The Metropolitan Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace, also on Plaza Murillo
To finish up we had a shot of Bolivia’s national liquor, Singani in a bar before going on our merry way.
Our guides, Chris and Mary were excellent and the tour was fantastic – a good amount of information and time spent at each site with ample opportunity to ask questions.
The three hour tour runs every day at 11am and 2pm from San Pedro Square. The cost is 20bs and an additional tip is expected. Bookings aren’t necessary.
INSIDER TIP: If you want to hear a first hand account of what it's like to be incarcerated in San Pedo prison, most days you can catch Crazy Dave in Plaza San Pedro from 1-2pm, just before the afternoon tour starts. He loves to sping a yarn and share his story. Your tips will be greatly appreciated. How will you know it's him? Let's just say you won't be guessing for too long. He's Crazy Dave for a reason!